There is something about a classic Hawkes Bay blend of Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Perhaps it is because the blend has been inspired from the great wines from Bordeaux in France. Perhaps it is because the grapes that make up the blend are so suited to the Hawkes Bay climate.

None is more highly regarded, in my opinion, than Te Mata Coleraine. This outstanding red wine, which made its debut in 1982 as a single vineyard blend, has developed in its richness and complexity over the years as the vines and winemaking team gain complexity with age. From 1989 additional vineyard sites were introduced to the blend to further add complexity. It is a wine of great longevity, adored by collectors and usually only available in back vintages at auction or from fastidious wine retailers who preserve vertical collections for sale to emerging appreciators of fine wine.

Collectors know the worth of buying Coleraine on release and cellaring in a cool dark place to let the wine evolve. There is a great return on investment if you open these wines with a little age. Of immense drinking pleasure right now is the 1991 vintage - reviewed with other back vintages in Evolution - a tasting of Coleraine from 1989 to 2000.

The current release is Te Mata Coleraine 2001, a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Franc. Blackish red in colour of medium to deep opacity emitting smoky French oak with whiffs of exotic spices, tar and sweet leather, this is a tight, earthy wine with cigar box, tobacco and pencil shavings dominating the flavours at first. However vigorous swirling lets the wine open up in the glass. It is very finely structured with silky tannins, concentrated cassis and plum, rosemary, nutmeg, liquorice and spicy French oak that is beautifully integrated throughout. It begs to be drink out of a big glass if you want to drink right now.

I let the wine sit for a couple of days then tasted again from three different glasses
- a standard ISO tulip-shaped tasting glass
- what I call a party glass, a v-shaped glass with a narrow bottom and a wider top
- a designer 'Bordeaux glass' with an immense capacity.

The same amount of wine was poured into each glass.

In the tasting glass the wine smells leathery with fragrant violets and cedary oak however it is quite closed when compared to the aromas from the party glass, which is far more inviting with the sweet-fruited aromatics begging you to drink right now. Concentrated red berry fruits come forth with abundance.

In the designer Bordeaux glass the wine smells absolutely sumptuous - leather, red licorice, cassis, plums, violets, smoky oak, spice and musk - it is all there and urging you to prolong the pleasure by taking it in the mouth.

In the mouth the flavour from each glass isn't really an issue at this stage of the wine's life. Firm tannins, red berries and plum fruits have a distinct licorice, leathery overtone with lots of cigar, tobacco, and chocolate box. It is a beautifully structured and well-balanced wine with dark, chocolatey oak, fine, firm, velvety youthful tannins, licorice and nutmeg spices, cassis and plum fruit, tar, tobacco, meat and leather. It's savoury, mouthfilling, robust and richly concentrated. Sweet fruitcake spices emerge on the lifted, long, delicious finish that lingers with musky violet sand suckery licorice flavours.

This is a wine with a deserved super-star image, a beautiful wine that every year never fails to please.

However, it is so very tight and absolutely screams ' please cellar me'.

It is widely available in retail, at Fine Wine stores and in supermarkets with good fine wine departments. Expect to pay between NZ$54 and $65.

Check out the the Te Mata Estate website for further information.

© Sue Courtney
25 May 2003