Jancis Robinson describes it as 'atypical' Marlborough pinot noir but one that will bring lots of pleasure for early drinking. I simply describe it as 'yummy' Marlborough pinot noir.

It wooed me when I tasted it at the winery last November. Then last week, as the Marlborough representative in the Pinot Noir 2001 New Zealand tasting, it wooed me again.

The Seresin Estate Marlborough Pinot Noir 1999 has a dense cherry red colour and enticing berry cherry floral and vibrantly rich aromatics, probably the most evocative aromas of any the pinot noirs on show - and there were well over 70. Also a hint of oak and a notion of herbs on the nose, which adds to the complexity and mystique.

Then in the palate rich spicy fruit, warm oak with a chocolate richness and vibrant lifted cherry fruit with a flash of spicy citrus zest emerging at the end. Very smooth round and long, warm and a little heady too. Try it again and savour that velvety texture. Another sip and there's a hint of that pinot earthiness that will develop with time. That's what I like about Pinot Noir - every sip evokes different flavours, different sensations.

It's a big rich beefy wine but oh so attractive and very drinkable.

Winemaker, Brian Bicknell spoke about the wine as he presented it to the delegates at the conference. 33% new oak, he said and wild malolactic fermentation in the barrel. But where does that voluptuous richness come from?

If it was available at the winery, it would have cost you NZ$33.90 but when I rang today (sunday 4th) I was told it was all sold out. Still it will be in selected retail and in the best restaurants in New Zealand and it is exported to many points on the globe's surface. In my mailer, agents are listed as being in Australia, England, Denmark, Switzerland, Belgium, Canada, Holland, Hong Kong, Ireland and the USA. Check the Seresin website for more information.

For an associated story, check out my notes on my visit to Seresin in November 2000.