Brett Morris couldn't find the wines he had enjoyed during regular visits to New Zealand back home in the UK. So he decided to import them himself. His company, Boutique Wines of New Zealand Ltd, represents eleven wineries, and in May I had the opportunity to taste their wines.

Brett had booked a room high in New Zealand House, conveniently situated in Haymarket near Piccadilly Circus, with a panoramic view over London's skyline.

The very first wine I tasted was incredible, really magnificent. It was a Chenin Blanc, a variety I had not previously encountered from New Zealand, and I was aghast when Brett told me that the winery was about to cut down the vineyard because there was so little consumer interest in the variety. Chenin Blanc doesn't have too good a reputation, mostly because worldwide there is a lot grown that is made into indifferent wine. But Margrain's Martinborough Chenin Blanc is in a different category altogether. Please do buy and try it. Let's see if we can save this vineyard!

Margrain's Chenin wasn't the tastings only outstanding wine; Winslows 'Petra' Bordeaux style blend was my other fave rave.

TASTING NOTES

Margrain (Martinborough)
Margrain Chenin Blanc 2001 - Soft floral nose. Fresh and tangy, full of gentle sweet fruits with a refreshing crisp apple acid twist on the end. Absolutely wonderful, this is a wine I want to drink a lot of. Excellent.

Margrain Chenin Blanc 2000 - A year older, this wine was like an older sibling of the 2001; some of the exuberance had subdued and become a little more complex and sophisticated. Excellent

Margrain Chardonnay 2000 - Pale white yellow, neither buttery or nor crisp, just a bland white wine,

Margrain Chardonnay 2001 - As above, with more apparent tannins and a sourish finish.

Margrain Riesling 1999 - Filling station diesel nose, very pronounced petrol taste cut by fruit acids.

Margrain Riesling 'Proprietors Reserve' 2000 - Subdued petrol tinged nose, but pronounced petrol taste, fat body with crisp fruit acids. This is one for Riesling fans, but not for me.

Margrain Gerwurztraminer 2001 - Classic spicy GW nose, sweet soft and rather flabby.

Margrain Pinot Gris 2000 - Light golden colour, clean and dry, tangy and fresh tasting. Very Good

Margrain Pinot Gris 2001 - More pungent and drier than 2001, cries out for food. Very Good.

Margrain Pinot Noir 2000 - Bright black red colour, full bodied with sweet red berries and balanced tannins, Very Good

Margrain Pinot Noir 2001 - Murky black red opaque colour, but feels thin and acidic in the mouth after the 2000

Brookfields (Hawkes Bay)
Brookfields Pinot Gris 2000 - Straw colour, clean and crisp with welcoming green apple acids and medium after taste. Good

Dry Gully (Otago)
Dry Gully Pinot Noir 1999 -Pale red, slightly browning. Rather woody and lacking fruit.

Springvale (Otago)
Springvale Pinot Noir 2000 - Pale red, slightly browning, soft redcurrant flavours, hint of wet earth and nail varnish.

Johanneshof (Marlborough)
Johanneshof Pinot Gris 2001 - Lovely floral nose which disappointingly doesn't come through on the palate, rather bland and soapy in the mouth.

Johanneshof Pinot Gris 2002 - Floral nose, fat and oily in mouth good balance of tannins and acids. Very Good

Johanneshof Sauvignon Blanc 2001 - Cracking good classic SB - nettles in a hedgerow flavours. Very Good

Johanneshof Sauvignon Blanc 2002 - Even fresher and crisper than 2001, less pronounced nettle flavours. Very Good

Opihi (Canterbury)
Opihi Pinot Gris 2001 - Subdued nose and subdued taste, full bodied and dry

Opihi Riesling 1999 - Unmistakable Riesling, crisp with full fat mouth feel and petrol tones.

Porters (Martinborough)
Porters Pinot Noir 2000 - Almost black, bright colour. I wouldn't have guessed this as PN from the colour. Warm alcoholic nose, full bodied and rich with good acids and oak tannins. Is this typical PN - no, do I like it - Yes! Very Good

Porters Pinot Noir 2001 - Inky black red, dry wood nose, full, almost oily mouthfeel. Some black pepper spices. A big wine, dry and tangy, looking for a meal to accompany. Very Good

Alexander (Martinborough)
Alexander Cabernet Merlot 2000 - Welcoming blackcurrant leaf nose, soft sweet warm berry fruits. Easy drinking.

Alexander Cabernet Franc 2000 - Bright clear garnet colours, clean fresh leafy taste, soft integrated tannins, very enjoyable.

Alexander Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2001 - Bright inviting inky black red colour, pencil case nose, tastes thinner than it looks bordeaux style, chewy oaks and long lasting oaky finish.

Bilancia (Hawkes Bay)
Bilancia Pinot Grigio 2002 - Pale yellow colour, indistinct nose, rounded mouthfeel, restrained and elegant,

Bilancia Pinot Grigio Reserve 2002 - rather dusty nose, restrained, soft rounded and dry with hints of white pepper.

Bilancia Syrah 2001 - Purple red colour, light bodied with spicy flavours, red fruits and black pepper.

Winslow (Martinborough)
Winslow Petra 2000 - Wonderful mouth filling wine with sweet fruits underpinned with very soft balanced tannins. There's a lovely fresh garden mint leaf tang to this wine which would be perfect matched with roasted leg of NZ lamb. (88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot). Excellent.

Few of these wineries produce anything like the quantities UK supermarkets are interested in and with the ongoing consolidation of high street wine outlets - see Episode 9 - companies like Boutique Wines of New Zealand become even more important in making artisanal wines available. For a descriptive price list contact Brett Morris at Brett.Morris@morris-orman.co.uk or phone Boutique Wines of New Zealand on 01452 863708

Any feedback? Send it to Peter.