In this article Peter goes to the second independent wine merchants fair held in the imposing surroundings of the Vinopolis wine museum and finds a couple of expat kiwi's who are now distributing quality wines from New Zealand in the UK. Peter also finds Cloudy Bay in screwcap then finds he is in the minority, according to a recent UK survey, in his preference for screwcaps.

Many wine-lovers consider making a business of their interest. Using the web as a shop window is inexpensive, there's no need to print paper wine lists and as long as you sell a minimum of 9 litres of wine (12 bottles) per transaction the law considers you a wholesaler and doesn't require a license. But the web is a crowded place: having a shop window is one thing, getting people to look in it is another.

Andy Barrow (of Andys-Scribblings ) newsletter realised there were many small wine merchants who'd welcome the opportunity to show their wines to potential customers and he started organising wine fairs around Britain where they could do just that. Last Sunday I went to the second London fair, held in the imposing surroundings of Vinopolis's Grand Hall on the banks of the Thames.

A chill winter wind ruffled the dull green surface of the Thames as I paused to admire a full size replica of Sir Francis Drake's Tudor galleon, the Golden Hinde, moored in a small dock. When I came to the previous London fair I had lunch outside the neighbouring pub on a deck over the water, but no-one was mad enough to eat outside now, and I walked along a narrow cobbled street past theatrical screams emanating from dungeons in the original Clink prison, now a tourist attraction, and into Vinopolis next door.

Vinopolis is a museum dedicated to wine where you can walk around exhibits listening to explanations on your headphones from luminaries like Oz Clarke, Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson while sipping samples from tasting stations along the way. Unfortunately it hasn't been as successful as hoped and new management have reduced floor space and exhibits and rent out the rooms released.

I was conducted past the ancient world of wine room and though a concealed door to the huge brick vaulted Grand Hall and The Independent Wine Merchants Fair.

Two lines of tables covered in bottles stretched down the sides of the hall, and grabbing a tasting glass I wandered past them until I found Hellion Wines www.hellionwines.com.

Jim Ledwith (pictured right) imports and distributes quality wines from small boutique New Zealand wineries. Before setting up Hellion Wines he lived in Central Otago, spending four years working at the Wine Deli in Queenstown and forging close links with many small vineyards. From this foundation he sources wines from small producers and imports them to the UK. At the fair he was showing four wineries, Bald Hills Vineyard, Berridge Vineyard Estates, Carrick Winery and Redmetal Vineyards.

I started with

Carrick Winery, Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (£10.95)

Water white colour, crisp granny smith flavours. Not sharp acidic, rather a touch of attractive creamyness. "They leave the grapes on longer," Jim told me.

Carrick Winery, Central Otago Pinot Gris 2003 (£12.50)

Pale straw, acid drop tangyness a medium, slightly sour finish.

Carrick Winery, Central Otago Pinot Noir 2002 (£18.50)

Plummy colour and flavours, a little sharp and tannic with a short finish

Bald Hills Winery, Central Otago Pinot Noir 2002 (£17.50)

"This vineyard is just 150 metres from the Carrick you've tasted," said Jim. "It's very popular in restaurants because its low tannins make it approachable and there's some good acids to match up to food." I found an off putting stinky nose and a metallic flavour underlying its fruit.

Redmetal Vineyards, Hawkes Bay Basket Press Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2002 (£14.95)

Bright garnet colour, plummy fruits, a little sharp and medium finish.

Jim was very enthusiastic about his wines and had some interesting facts about each one. He focuses solely on New Zealand wines and has produced an information packed list and detailed leaflets for each wine. His stand was getting busy by now, and I wish him success in his venture.

30/50
www.thirtyfifty.co.uk

ThirtyFifty, formed in 2002 by New Zealander Chris Scott and his wife Jane, takes its name from the lines of latitude between which grapes grow. They market their wines through the party plan system via tastings at customer's homes and workplaces and were showing the following New Zealand wines.

Palliser Pencarrow Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough (£6.99)

this second label wine had a very strong perfume of green gooseberries which, but they didn't dominate the fresh tangy flavours of this delightful wine.

Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2004 , Martinborough (£9.99)

a small venture renting space in a winery and making wine from bought in grapes. Not bone dry, good green pepper flavours

Babich Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2000 (£7.49)

I found this rather sharp and woody with a hollow middle and sour finish

Babich Winemakers Reserve Pinotage 2002 (£8.49)

I was delighted to see a NZ Pinotage on sale in the UK, and Babich make one of the best I've tasted - though I have not had many. This was rich in fruit, almost Shiraz like, smooth and with a delicious spicy finish.

Seifreid Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 1998 (£8.49)

Soft fruity, light bodied and very pleasant drinking.

Jane and Chris are obviously having great fun with 30/50 and they communicate that enjoyment to customers. Their wine tasting parties are becoming increasingly popular and the wine list is expanding.

HOMEWARD BOUND

Although the train back to Snorbens had its heaters on full blast, I felt cold inside and my limbs started to ache. By the time I arrived home my nose was streaming and I had a headache. The first of this winters colds was upon me. I couldn't taste the wine at dinner and realised the reason I was having difficulty fully appreciating wines at the Fair was because my taste buds were starting to close down.

I'd like to taste them all again and it'll be a pleasure to renew acquaintances with Jim, Jane and Scott. I'm encouraging Andy Barrow to hold a fair in Snorbens in 2005, which he tells me he is actively considering.

SCREWED AT LAST

In Episode 17 I wondered why Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2003 shipments to Britain were still closed with corks while Canada was getting screw-caps. The good news is that the 2004 is here and in screw-caps. I had my first taste last night, and it was just right.

A LONE VOICE

But I'm in the minority in desiring screw-caps according to the first independent survey of UK consumer's attitudes to wine closures by research group Wine Intelligence Ltd. They found consumers associated screw-caps with 'poor quality' wines and a surprising two thirds of under 45 year-olds said they avoided them, although over-45's and higher income respondents are more tolerant of alternative closures. However just 3% of respondents favoured screw-caps on wines costing over £5.

It's some time since I changed my mind and came out in favour of screw-caps, and there are many discussions about the closures on various web discussion boards. Among wine aficionados there is great awareness of the issues and a considerable opinion in favour of them, if only for wine meant for drinking in the short term. So it's a surprise to read this report and realise that the general wine drinking public is lagging behind. If we are going to get more wines in screw-caps it's them who are going to need convincing.

UNWINDING WITH A FLOURISH

Many people consider corks are romantic and the process of opening a bottle with a corkscrew adds to their sense of occasion, citing that as a reason for not wanting screw-caps.

In order to make a ceremony of opening a screw-capped wine Villa Maria Estate have produced a training video for restaurant staff to show how to open a screw-capped wine with a flourish.

According to The Daily Telegraph, they recommend sommeliers first crack the seal and then unwind the cap by holding the bottle and rolling the cap down their forearm. I've tried this and it works quite well, but will we see it happening in restaurants? And do we want to? By taking care you can open the bottle without too much movement. But I can envisage bottles getting shaken with enthusiastic waiters flicking wine over diners.

HOLLYS WARNING

Winter has started early this year. Even when the sun shines it's bitterly cold outside. December hasn't started yet Snorbens has already had a few brief sleet showers and there are thick clusters of bright red berries on holly bushes which folklore warns is a certain sign of a tough winter.

If you have been, thanks for reading

© Peter May
5 Dec 2004

Any feedback? Send it to Peter.