The Pinotage grape is no longer flavour of the month in some circles, but pity them, as they don’t know what they’re missing. Now that the Soljans Pinotage 1997 has been awarded five stars by the Cuisine Magazine tasting panel, perhaps some will change their mind. The Soljans wine (about $15.00) is made from grapes grown in Kumeu. It has a deep purple-red colour, plummy flavour and subtle oak character and fully deserves its top rating.

Pinotage, a red grape variety developed in South Africa in the 1920’s, copes well with the humidity in our region. The grapes have thick skins with a deep bluish-purple bloom that gives the wine its rich colour. The tannins are soft which allow the wine to be enjoyed when young.

Nobilos were the first to realise commercial success with Pinotage when their 1970 vintage won "Champion Wine" at the National Show in 1973. Since that time they have continued to make the wine with the grapes they grow around their winery site in Huapai. The 1994 vintage (about $18.50) is the current release. It is made in the traditional European style of fermenting on skins in open vats for 12 days, then extensive ageing in a combination of old and new French oak for 18 months. It is aged for another year in the bottle before release. The wine is soft and savoury with berry fruit flavours. It offers delicious drinking now but could be safely cellared for up to six years.

Kerr Farm is another Kumeu winery who make a pinotage from grapes grown on their property. The vines date back to the 1970’s when the site was under Corbans ownership. The current release (about $15.00), from the 1997 vintage, is a soft, savoury wine with hints of spice and is popular with followers of this grape.

Other Auckland wineries to make use of the pinotage grape are Pleasant Valley, who release a 100% pinotage under their Signature label, and Babich, who blend the grape with Cabernet Sauvignon. Montana release a pinotage made from fruit grown in the Hawkes Bay under the Saints label but only in exceptional vintages. The last release was from 1994. Perhaps the 1998 vintage will be good enough to make another.

Is Pinotage about to make a comeback? Darryl Soljan hopes so, as he has planted Pinotage on his vineyard in Matakana Valley Road. I certainly hope so too, because the little that is made sells out far too quickly.